Mar 2006

My last stop in Cambodia was to the city of Battambang which is about 4 hours south of Siem Reap. Battambang is Cambodia's second largest city and sits adjacent to the Stung Sangker river. It has no ATM machines and retains a small town feel. I enjoyed my stay in Battambang because of the friendly locals and it's non-touristy vibe. The highlights of my stay included visiting a local Wat and hanging out with some young monks, taking a Cambodian cooking class where I learned how to cook some local cuisine, and
visiting Phnom Sampeau. At Phnom Sampeau there is a small wat on the top of a summit that gives you a panoramic view of the surrounding area and visiting a cave that was used by the Khymer Rouge to dump bodies which was ominiously called the Killing Cave.

From Battambang my friends and I took a circuitous route to Lao through Thailand. We took this route because it was cheap and it gave me an opportunity to check out Bangkok and the legendary Khao San road. My impressions prior to visiting Khao San were mixed because of Alex Garland's The Beach's description of it. But after getting there, Khao San road wasn't too bad. Khao San offered almost anything that you wanted or needed. It had cheap and delicious food from local vendor carts, a plethora of places to stay, numerous drinking holes and everything in between. Not too shabby. Also while I was in Bangkok, I was able to add more pages to my passport. (If you ever need to add pages to your passport, do it abroad because it's free and they usually add the new pages on the spot). After about 24 hours in Bangkok, my friends and I caught the overnight train to Lao.

Just 5 hours west of Phnom Penh is the coast of Cambodia and the city of Sihanoukville. After a day in the hot and humid weather of Phnom Penh, the beach was calling my name.

We stayed in a bungalow just across the street from Victory beach. Our bungalow cost $6 a night and the place offered cheap food and a draft beer of Angkor for $.50. I sometimes wonder why I left Sihanoukville. The ocean water was amazing. The water temperature was about 25 Celsius or 75 Farenheit and it was sometimes warmer outside the water than in it. I spent my time there hanging out on the various beaches, toodling around on a motorbike and eating some pretty good grubb. Also while I was there I went running in the mornings. I got to see the locals starting their day, kids going to school and even a wedding reception. Not a bad way to spend five days.

My next stop was Siem Reap and the Temples of Angkor. The bus ride from Sihanoukville to Siem Reap (Angkor Wat) is long. It took us almost 11 hours to get to Siem Reap due to the numerous stops and the not-so-bus-friendly roads, oh well.

Siem Reap is a small river town that hosts the guests of Cambodia's main attraction, the Temples of Angkor. During my stay in Siem Reap, the temperature was hot and humid with an occasional rain storm. The Temples of Angkor were amazing. There are over 12 temples in Angkor. We purchased a three day pass and it still didn't seem like enough time. The temples are all unique. Each temple differs from each other due to the different techniques and materials used to build them and the influence of the ruling party when each was built.

The most popular and widely known temple is Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat is awesome. The temple is surrounded by a large moat and a 1300 x 1500 meter wall. It has a massive three-tiered pyramid crowned by five beehive-like towers rising 65 meters from ground level. I watched the sunrise there and it was amazing! I climbed the 45 degree steps to the beehive-like towers and I got a panoramic view of the surrounding jungle which was so peaceful. Visiting the Temples of Angkor is a must do!

The highlights of my time in Siem Reap included watching the sunset from Phnom Bakheng, playing cards (Hearts) with my friends, giving blood and exploring the numerous temples of Angkor. Good times, good times.

It takes about a total of 9 hours to get from Saigon to Phnom Penh which includes bathroom stops and making a run for the border. A full day's experience for only $9.

The road to Phnom Penh alternates between pavement and dirt with an emphasis on bumps - many, many bumps. The land in Cambodia is flat and arid and the temperature is hot and humid, especially during the dry season.

Cambodia itself is an intriguing country. In the northwest, they have the temples of Angkor. These are magnificent temples that were built thousands of years ago. But Cambodia's recent history has been marked by turmoil. One the worst parts of their history occured less than thirty years ago with the reign of the Khymer Rouge from 1975 to 1979. I recently read the book Brother Number One: Pol Pot. This book documents Pol Pot and the Khymer Rouge's rise and fall from power. During their reign, it is estimated that between 1 to 3 million people died including most of their intellectual population. A very sad and troubling time.

Cambodia is still trying to recover from the Khymer Rouge's reign and it is a very poor country. I got my first glimpse of the poverty at a river crossing on my way to Phnom Penh. While our bus was waiting for the ferry, we were bombarded by kids peddling drinks and food to us. Just past them other kids were searching through trash while they carried their younger siblings. A sad sight to see. In Phnom Penh, it is estimated that 20,000 kids live on the streets.

Phnom Penh is the capital of Cambodia with a population around 1.5 million people. My stay in Phnom Penh was for only one full day but during my stay I visited the Killing Fields and Tuol Seng Museum. There was a movie made about the Killing Fields. The Killing Fields are located about 15 km or 10 miles outside of Phnom Penh. It is estimated that 15,000 men, women and children were murdered there. There is a temple in the center of Killing Fields that contains the skulls of some of the victims and they show the brutality of the Khymer Rouge. All around the temple are ditches with signs marking the mass graves of the victims who were buried there.

Tuol Seng Museum or S-21 was an old high school that was converted into a prison by the Khymer Rouge. Pol Pot used S-21 to torture and murder people that the Khymer Rouge believed were conspiring against them. No one was immune to their brutality. Pol Pot tortured and killed colleagues who had been loyal to him for twenty years. While S-21 was in use, an estimated 12,000 people were killed and only 12 people survived.

Although my time in Phnom Penh was short and melancholy, it is definitely a place to visit. I had some delicious food from the local food stands and the river side area is very nice to see.

Travelling throughout Vietnam is really easy. For one, you can pretty much book a ticket anywhere on almost any type of transportation. At many of the "cafes" in Vietnam, you can book a ticket, rent a room, and grab dinner all in one place. Plus there are a variety of options when traversing Vietnam. The cheapest and one of the easiest ways to travel is by using the Open Bus ticket. For a measley $30, you can travel from Hanoi to Saigon or vice versa (Roughly 1700 km or 1020 miles) and you can stop in six cities in between, not too shabby. The buses are full size buses and although they aren't the most comfortable of rides, you just can't beat the price. (I think $30 on a greyhound bus will only get you to Bakersfield and who wants to go to Bakersfield).

After taking an overnight bus from Hoi An, I arrived in Nha Trang. Nha Trang is roughly the halfway point between Hanoi and Saigon and it is a mid-size city with great beaches. When I arrived, I was greated with hot weather and clear blue skies. It's a hard life but someone has to live it. I liked Nha Trang not only because of the weather and the beaches but because it has something for everyone - nice beaches and warm sea water, a plethora of bars and clubs to visit and a variety of places to eat seafood, local food and different ethnic foods. I spent my days chillin' on the beach and the nights visiting different restuarants and bars. I also took a day tour of some of the islands just off the coast of Nha Trang. Not a bad way to spend a couple of days in Vietnam.

Next up was Ho Chi Minh City or Saigon. I arrived after an overnight bus from Nha Trang and the weather was hot and humid. My stay in Saigon was very short, just two days but while I was there I visited the War Remnant Museum formerly named the American War Crimes museum and Cu Chi Tunnels which are about 50 km outside of Saigon. The War Remnants Museum had a lot of interesting pictures of the Vietnam war and it had an interesting exhibit about the effects of Agent Orange, Napalm and chemicals that were used during the war. The Cu Chi tunnels were a maze of tunnels that were built during the war. The tunnels ran for miles and had different levels and size rooms throughout them. They were an amazing work. Of course, two days in Saigon is not enough time to experience the city, but I will be heading back to Saigon in early May to meet up with my old roommate and just hang out.

After 13 days in North Vietnam and the onset of cold weather, the mission was to find the beach and sunny weather. Like birds flocking south, we moved south to China beach. China beach was a popular R&R place for American soldiers during the Vietnam war. My friend and I stayed at local guesthouse 50 meters from the beach called Hoa's place. Hoa's Place is a legend among backpackers and there are guestbooks filled with backpackers logs to prove it. If you ever visit, I have a note in there too! Hoa's place is run by none other than Hoa and his wife. He offers a clean place, good food (try the local burger - burger with an egg and cheap beer with a laid back attitude. Some of his favorite english lines include "Take it easy man" and "Enjoy". Hoa was one of the most genuine Vietnamese I met in Vietnam. He makes you want to come back and visit, which many people do. Hoa's place is a home away from home.

About 20 km or 12 miles from China Beach is the city of Hoi An. Hoi An is mid-way between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). It is adjacent to the Thu Bon river and has small french colonial buildings of differing colors. Hoi An has something for everyone. It is near the beach, about 3 km away. You can get tailored clothes for cheap prices - a tailored suit cost about $50 and takes about a day to be made. A variety of small restaurants that offer local cuisine and almost any type of food you are jonesing for, even swedish meatballs. There are numerouse bars offering cheap drinks and a relaxed ambiance. A fun town to visit and stay in.

On the outskirts of Hoi An, lies My Sun. My Sun was a religious centre back in the late 14th century. My lonely planet guide book raved about it. Although it sounds nice, my visit there was very disappointing because only part of the temples were still standing because the rest had been bombed by the American's during the war, nice.